Car rental outfits can be found on all the larger Greek islands. Most firms are clustered around the airport or, if there is no airport, around or near the main port which is usually the main town.
For those on a single island holiday the main question is whether to book online before you go or find a car rental firm after your arrival. There are pros and cons either way.
For those on island hopping tours or who have no particular base then booking as you go along is probably the best option. Ferries are never that reliable for getting you to an island on time as weather conditions can delay sailings. You can waste money by booking car hire ahead and end up with a rental car booked on one island and you stuck on another.
The main advantages of booking online is that you can get the cheaper deals, especially out of season. Also, if things go wrong you can sort any problems out after you arrive home. Dealing with an overseas company can be difficult and time-consuming. Rental cars can also be waiting for you at the airport or delivered to your door so you don't waste any holiday time trudging around and comparing prices.
But booking on arrival has advantages too. Greeks are much more prepared to haggle over prices so it is possible to pick up some incredibly cheap deals, especially out of season. You can also hire a car for just a couple of days, then maybe a day or two later in the holiday, again cutting overall costs.
Rental cars these days tend to be new, although some Greek car hire firms may still hire out old 'bangers'. Insist on a recent model and take a good look at the car before signing up. Check the hire car over before getting in and point out any dents or scratches to the car rental firm. Some holidaymakers will take photos of the car before getting in – no problem with a mobile – so they can't get accused of causing scratches and dents. Check you have decent insurance cover too or an accident will prove very expensive indeed.
Do not drink and drive. There are police spot checks of hire cars and fines can be very heavy. Also, remember that seatbelts are compulsory and children under ten years old must sit in the back of your hire car.
Motorbikes are available virtually everywhere and most rent-a-moto outfits like to have the latest models. If you do hire a moped do take special care on the potholed roads.
If you head off for the hills take care; sharp bends are not always signposted, animals such as goats will often be found wandering the highway and large snakes basking on the hot tar are not uncommon. Loose grit on the road can also be a problem so you should know how to handle a hire bike in a skid. Your holiday can be ruined by a fall.
Motorbike hire is hugely popular with youngsters on Greek island holidays – but they should be aware of the dangers. Greece ranks worst of the European countries for motorbike road deaths. In the rest of the EU, fatal accidents involving motorbikes make up 17.7% of all road deaths, whereas in Greece the figure is close to 40%, making Greece the most dangerous country in Europe for motorcyclists.
In Greece, fatalities stand at 39 motorcyclists for every million citizens. This number is much higher than for Italy, where the ratio is 23 per million, France 17.3 per million, Portugal 17 per million and Spain 14.7 per million.
Helmets are required by law. Locals appear to ignore this rule with impunity but police have a habit of pulling over tourists.
If a Greek flashes his lights it does NOT mean he is waiting for you. It means 'Get out of my way NOW or I'll ram you into next week'
Greek roads have improved greatly in recent years, mainly as a result of Greece joining the EU. But island highways still leave a lot to be desired. Potholes and loose gravel are the most dangerous hazards, missing or misleading signposts are as irritating as they are commonplace.
Cliff roads are rarely fenced despite the Greek weakness for throwing up wire fencing almost everywhere else. Fallen rocks from cliffs can litter mountain roads and it is not unusual to find herds of goats wandering about or the odd snake taking a siesta on the hot tarmac.
Greek drivers are generally considered maniacs and it's wise to always give way or allow them to overtake. Greece has the highest accident rate in Europe after Portugal. It is partly the state of the roads but mainly the attitude of Greek drivers.
If you do have an accident and you are in the AA or RAC you can get free roadside help from ELPA – the Greek equivalent. Also, note it is an offence to leave the scene of an accident and you can be held by police for questioning for up to 24 hours.
Whatever you do, don't follow the example of the Greeks themselves. They are some of Europe's worst drivers as the accident rate shows and they show an outlandish disregard for tourists. If you do decide that you want to drive like a Greek then see the panel right for some useful tips on keeping the wrong side of Greek law.
Greek island taxis can be cheap in towns and drivers must use a meter. Fares are controlled nationally but not always observed. Generally, taxi drivers are honest and friendly but in tourist hotspots like Faliraki or Laganas, this may not be the case. Drivers in Athens, for example, are notorious for ripping off tourists and other visitors.
On popular islands like Rhodes and Skiathos out-of-town charges can double for no apparent, or legal, reason so take care if you want to go off the main road.
Fares are set by the government but it is always a good idea to agree on the price (for the car not for each person) before you set off and if rates are reasonable there's no reason not to give a generous tip as fares are generally lower than in the UK.
Greek taxi drivers will often pick up other passengers on the way, its normal in Greece and helps drivers make themselves a decent living. Other passengers are not stealing your ride – their pay too and your fare stays the same.
Greek buses are cheap and punctual. Check local shops or post offices for timetables which may also be posted up at the odd bus stop.
Beware of travelling during the 'tourist hours' of 10 am to noon and 4 to 6 pm when everyone is heading for the beach or heading back to the hotel. Everyone wants to travel and buses are crammed full – and them some more. Buses can become sweaty pits of almost unbelievable mayhem.
Conductors and drivers are usually very helpful but be prepared for buses to take the odd detour to drop off one of the driver's relatives or to detover a parcel at a hillside village. Don't worry, they get you there in the end.
The main Greek bus operator is KTEL. Unfortunately, the website pulled all schedules and information about its English language long-distance bus network in Greece after a media company started using KTEL's free information to launch a paid-for call service. KTEL countered with its own paid-for call service and removed its English language schedules from the web.
Fortunately, some islands and independent websites have put up schedules to fill the void, notably Crete. The site Living in Greece has also put together some long distance schedules that help fill the gap for now.
English speakers can get schedules from EOT offices, Greek speakers can dial local KTEL phone numbers in Greek.
For many islands, especially the smaller ones, local maps are works of fiction, bearing little resemblance to the road network. If you do get a map get a Greek one. You may not be able to pronounce the village names but at least the map hieroglyphs may almost resemble the road signs and you might just get an inkling of where you are.
That said, many signs do now have a phonetic English equivalent though they may still point the wrong way or announce you are in a place that does not exist. You will do well to adopt the Greek motto – there is always tomorrow. If in doubt stop at the nearest taverna and order a coffee and ask the waiter for directions. You could just settle for enjoying where you are – at least you won't feel lost anymore.